Conditions
During post-spawn in many shad-based western reservoirs, walleye must find alternative food sources until the shad population blossoms in the summer. This is especially true on lakes that have a large shad winter kill. The lack of large numbers of shad will force the walleye to hunt for spawning perch in the weeds, other baitfish, insect larva or small invertebrates. Under these conditions, I sometimes look for rock/boulder areas.
The higher percentage areas that I look for are rocky points and shorelines directly adjacent to deep water. As the big females transition from spawning areas to post-spawn areas, they will find feeding opportunities along the way. These transitioning fish are likely to pause in their journey whenever food and cover is located. Big rocks and boulders are the ultimate hotel-restaurant for traveling walleye.
Jigging Tactics
Once a likely location is found, I start with a 1/16 oz. jig tipped with a minnow, leech or crawler. Using a lighter jig allows the bait to fall slowly, and it can save you from a day full of snags. I typically start with casts to relatively shallow water and allow the light jig enough time to settle to the bottom. You don't need to impart much if any action to the jig as you SLOWLY work it back to the boat. The action comes from the live bait and from the jig falling from higher rocks to lower rocks. You'll feel the jig dragging across the boulders, and become weightless as it falls to the next. Keep your line tight enough to feel strikes while still allowing it to slowly fall. Work the jig until it is directly under the boat. When it's under the boat, lift it up and down a few times before reeling in and recasting.
Strikes can come at any time during the retrieve, but most come as the jig is falling from one rock to another. After feeling a tentative strike, I don't set the hook until I'm sure they have fully engulfed it. I've learned that tentative strikes will be short hits if the hook is set too early. Using a stinger hook when fishing with minnows or crawlers can minimize short hits. When using leeches, I prefer to wait a few seconds before setting the hook. If the hits are really aggressive and obvious, I'll set the hook immediately.
It's very important to take mental notes of the depths of the bites. If the hits are coming shallower, I'll throw a slip bobber out to that depth while jigging with the other rod. If most of the hits are coming from under the boat in deeper water, I'll switch to one of my favorite methods...vertical bouncing!
Vertical Bouncing
Many anglers have never even heard of vertical bouncing, but it's my "go to" method when fishing rocky areas vertically. When fishing deep water over big boulders and rocks, vertical jigging requires a heavier jig and that can lead to a day of snags and knot tying.
To be effective vertical bouncing, you'll need a 6- to 8-foot medium-action casting rod equipped with a good baitcasting reel. I use a bottom bouncer clipped to a line slider and a 3- to 7-foot snell with a plain hook. I typically use 10-pound Fireline for the main line, and 6- to 8-pound fluorocarbon for the leader.
Vertical Bouncing Tactics
Once fish are located among the boulders, at depths greater than 20 feet, you're ready to try vertical bouncing. Simply push the button on your bait-casting reel, and allow the bouncer to pull the rig to the bottom. Once contact is made, lift the bouncer until nothing is touching the rocks except the end of the bouncer wire. As the boat moves slowly, simply "walk" the bouncer over the boulders. It's critical that the line remain vertical. If the boat is moving too fast, the bouncer will start dragging and will snag almost immediately.
Since this technique is a vertical presentation, boat control is critical. In high winds, it can be difficult to hold boat position, and that is the hardest part when vertical bouncing. In moderate winds, I typically throw out a buoy marker for reference, and point the bow of my Ranger into the wind. Using my bow-mount motor to hold position is sufficient under most conditions. If the wind begins to overpower the bow-mount, I turn the transom into the wind and back troll.
After a few hours of practice, most anglers can describe the shape and size of each rock as they walk the bouncer over it. Using super lines such as Fireline, can greatly enhance the your ability to feel the rocks, and detect subtle bites from finicky walleye.
When a productive spot is found, mark the coordinates on your GPS. This spot is likely to hold walleye throughout the day, and perhaps for several weeks. Many times, different pods of fish will come in and out of that spot continually.
I hope a few of these tips will help you have as much fun in the rocks as I do. Take care, and if you ever see a Cabela's Ranger with NPAA #720 on the water, stop by and say hi!
Side note: Rick's equipment
| Ricks Equipment |
| Pitching Jigs: |
| Rod |
6' medium action, one piece, graphite (Cabela's 604-XML or similar) |
| Reel |
Spinning reel that's smooth and well balanced with rod. Typically weighing between 9- to 10-oz. (Cabela's Prodigy) |
| Line |
6- to 8-lb. mono in clear water with no wind. 4- to 6-lb. Flame-Green Fireline in high winds or dirty water |
| Bait |
3" - Power Grubs, minnows, leeches or crawlers |
| Vertical Bouncing: |
| Rod |
6'-8' medium action, one piece, graphite, casting (XML-CLC663) |
| Reel |
Smooth bait-casting reel that balances well with rod (Calcutta 200 or Cabela's Tournament ZX) |
| Main Line |
10-pound Smoke Fireline |
| Leader Line |
6- to 8-lb. Sensation Fluorocarbon |
| Bouncers |
1/2- to 1.5-oz. lead-wire sliding bouncers |
| Bait |
4" - Power Worm, minnows, leeches or crawlers |
Rick Gardner was born and raised in Colorado where he still resides with his family. A mechanical engineer by trade, he's been an avid angler all his life. He started competitive tournament fishing at the regional level and jumped into the Professional Walleye Trail in 2002. Some of his fishing accomplishments include: Rookie of the Year PWT Western Division, Angler of the Year PWT Western Division, Top Ten PWT Championship Qualifier, Member of the PWT advisory council.
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