"One shot; that's what it's all about." I'm sure many of you are familiar with that line from the movie The Deer Hunter. I'm equally certain anyone who has ever taken a hunter safety course, or had a debate over firearm action types has heard someone similarly championing the theory that you should strive to make one good shot. I disagree. But before all you Robert DeNiro wannabes and ethical purists start to use my good name in vain, hear me out. I heartily agree that you should make every effort to take game with a single, well-placed shot, and you should be prepared mentally and with the right equipment to do so. But the shot you take after you reduce your game to possession is just as important, and you should be similarly prepared.

The primary difference is you'll be using a weapon for the former, and a camera for the latter.

The thrill of the hunt and all of the emotions that go along with taking the trophy of a lifetime may last only seconds. Memories of the event will persist, but over time, they too will fade. However, a powerful image can rekindle some of those emotions as well as many fond memories. You may only get one chance to capture that image though; so you'd better make it a good shot.

I was recently invited to serve on a Photographic Working Group for the Outdoor Writer's Association of America's Communicators of Hunting Heritage section. Our charge was to come up with recommendations for publishable photos. What follows are some of the suggestions of group members, as well as some of my own recommendations, and those of photo editors I've worked with, on how to take quality trophy shots.

Presentation
Even if you never intend to take the photo outside of your own home, your goal should still be to take a photo worthy of publication in any outdoor magazine.

And one of the first things any editor will look for is a clean scene. Both you and the animal should be neat and clean.

Rule No. 1 in any photo is: no blood. That means on the animal and you. You can use a few moist wipes, even some toilet paper to clean off any blood, especially from the animals face and your hands and clothing.

Rule No. 2: is no tongue. Stuff it back in the animal's mouth. Cut it off if you have to, but make sure it does not show in the photos. Hanging tongues are probably the top reason for photo editor's rejections. They detract from the photo and turn viewers off.

The subjects should also look neat and tidy. Smooth out any ruffled hair or feathers on the game. Put on your best camos or clean off any mud, dirt, leaves, etc. from you and your trophy. You don't want the photo to look like you had to wrestle the poor beast to death, even if you did. You should take some field photos if you have a camera with you, but your best shots will likely come after you've gotten your prize home. Also, avoid logo shirts and hats.

Cleaning up the background is just as important. Clutter is very distracting and can ruin an otherwise perfect photo.

It's tempting, easy and everyone does it; but don't take photos of your buck in the back of a pick-up truck. Move the trophy away from buildings, gut piles or heapes of junk. You want a neutral background with no distracting items. If you're shooting in a field, pay particular attention to the horizon. A skyline cutting through the hunter's head is also very distracting, as is a tree limb coming out of his ear.

Two more things to consider are safety, and ethics. Nothing catches the viewers eye like a muzzle pointing in the wrong direction. Some editors and photographers also recommend leaving the action open. I would concur with this, except perhaps in the case of a bolt-action rifle or shotgun. While it's more important for the publishable photo, you should also consider wearing orange if it is required where and when your hunt occurred. It also adds color to the image, and provides a stronger background to pose antlers against.

There are also some ethical concerns when composing a shot. The OWAA photo group strongly recommends not straddling the game as it appears disrespectful. If you do photograph the game hanging from a game pole you should be aware of local customs. I know some hunters who consider it disrespectful to hang deer by their head or neck. Last but not least, smile.

Composition and Position
Composition is another area that can make a huge difference in the quality of your photo. As already mentioned, you should avoid cluttered background and distracting items. Changing camera settings to reduce the depth of field can help to reduce distracting backgrounds simply by putting them out of focus.

Shooting from a low angle helps enhance the animal's size. Avoid shooting down at the subject. At the very least, you should be at the same level. If you can pose the subject above you on a slight incline that's even better.

How you pose the animal and subject is largely up to you. The most popular trophy shots are sometimes referred to as a "hero" or "grip and grin" shot. This is with you squatting or kneeling by the animal on the ground, holding its antlers or horns. In the case of a turkey, try to spread out its wings and tail fan. Again, avoid truck bed or game pole shots. In the case of antlered game, grasp the antlers as close to the bases as possible. Also, gripping with your fingertips is better than a full, wrap-around grip as you'll obscure less of the rack.

You can also use some creativity here. Don't just look at the camera; look admiringly at the animal. Try posing yourself so that you're facing it rather than crouching behind it. In the case of antlered or horned animals, pose the head in different positions to accentuate different characteristics of its trophy headgear. You may also want to include a guide or friend who participated in the hunt.

Don't center the shot. Try to place the main subject slightly off to one side. Another trick is to compose the scene so it leads the viewer's eyes from right to left. That's how we read and our eyes naturally move that way. Though it's subconscious, leading the eye from right to left will seem less attractive.

General Photo Tips
One of the best tips is to burn film. Film is cheap, but trophies are rare. Take lots of photos and bracket every shot. This means changing your f-stop one or even two stops above and below your metered level. Try several different poses, and bracket each one. If possible, you should also take duplicate photos with another camera. That way if one roll of film is lost or damaged, you still have a back-up. If there's one nearby, take the film to a one-hour processor and get it developed. This will allow you to re-shoot if necessary.

The time of day photos are taken is also important. The intense, direct light of midday will wash out colors. Conversely, low light, early and late in the day will always produce a sharper, more colorful image. If you take photos at midday, avoid direct sunlight. Pose the subject in the shade and use a flash. Even if you have sufficient ambient light, using a fill-flash can sometimes help reduce distracting shadows on the face. One of the most objectionable (and common) flaws in field photography is the face of the subject darkened by the shadows of a protruding hat lid. Either tilt the hat upwards or remove it entirely. Shoot a flash, even in bright daylight, as it will help "fill" some of the shadows. To remove strong shadows, a square (2 feet x 2 feet) of cardboard covered with aluminum foil can be held off to the side of the subject and used to reflect light under the bill of the hat.

If your camera has manual capabilities, always use a gray card to meter your light. This will give you a neutral or average reflectance of the subject and back ground. This is particularly important with snow scenes. If you don't have a gray card use a tree, or even a close up of the animal's hide. Whenever possible, you should always use a tripod as well. This prevents camera shake from those who punch the shutter, which results in blurred images. When composing the shot on a tripod you should also make sure the camera is plumb and level as a canted photo is also distracting.

Trick Photography
Did you ever notice how the deer in most of the really good hero shots you see in magazines look almost as if they're still alive? It's because of the eyes. If you take the photos right away, the deer's eyes are open and shiny. Soon however, they'll glaze over and begin to close. Many professional photographers carry a set of glass taxidermy eyes. These half-cup eyes will fit right over the deer's eyes, making it look much fresher. You can also make it look fresher by wetting the nose. Another little trick is to position the hunter as far behind the animal as possible. This will make it look bigger in relation to the hunter. If you do this, it's important to make sure your camera setting allows for enough depth of field to keep the hunter and the animal in focus. Done correctly it makes a stunning photo, done too much it looks faked and exaggerated.

New Technology
Digital photography offers a whole new range of opportunities and advantages. First, you can view images instantly, and make necessary adjustments on the spot. Second, you can later manipulate the photo image to delete distracting items and make minor color, tint and hue adjustments. Third, you can send images over the internet to all your friends and make them jealous.

In the words of Editor Frank Ross, " Over the years I have seen far too many photos of beautiful animals that were very regrettable. With few exceptions, the once proud hunter handed them to me with a disclaimer - it's not a very good picture but...

You can avoid this uncomfortable situation as well as have a great photo that remind you of that perfect day when it all came together by simply following the steps covered in this article."