Done properly, waterfowl can become graceful mounts that are both a work of art and lifelong reminder of the experience and excitement of the hunt. I qualify that statement with "done properly", because a mount that is done poorly is only a reminder of poor quality and will eventually end up in the attic or a garage sale.

Like most endeavors in life, the quality at the end begins with the preparation at the beginning, in the field. Whether you intend on mounting your own bird, or taking it to a qualified taxidermist, the things that happen to a bird in the first few minutes after the shot will have a significant impact on both the final outcome and the work that it takes to create it.

The best results come from birds that are harvested and cared for with the intent of mounting them from the outset. Deciding that you might want to mount a bird after it has been left in the bottom of your blind, tossed in a bag, will produce a poor quality mount at best.

If you have decided to add a waterfowl mount to your den or study, here are a few things that will improve your mount before you blow the first call.

- Take a cooler to chill your trophy.

- Take cotton balls to place into the bird's bill to keep blood from running out on the feathers.

- Take several large plastic bags and wire ties to seal them.

- Some taxidermists recommend using panty hose to keep feathers in place, and others say never use panty hose. Check with the taxidermist you intend on using to see how they want you to deliver your trophy.

- Keep these things in mind as the birds' cup their wings and make that final approach.

- Feathers are fragile. A bird that has been retrieved by a hard-mouthed dog will have damaged feathers. The optimal situation would be to retrieve the bird yourself.

- Broken bones and bills can be repaired, but damaged feathers can't.

- Pick up birds by their feet and never carry a bird by its neck.

- After retrieval, keep the bird in a dry place.

- Do not field dress the bird, instead, fold the bird's neck under its wing or over its back in a natural position and seal it in two plastic bags, in case one leaks.

- If you can't take the bird directly to your taxidermist, put it in the freezer ASAP.

- Select a bird with as little shot damage as possible.

- Spread the bird's wings to check for damaged feathers. Body feathers can be covered up nicely, but wing or tail feathers that are damaged do not repair well.

- Select a mature bird. In most cases, mature birds will have the most colorful feathers and a young bird's immature feathers tend to fall out during the mounting process.

- If the bird isn't dead, don't wring its neck. Instead, place your fingers under the wings on each side and hold it firmly with both hands until it expires.

With proper preparation and field care you will have a mount that you will be proud of, one that will fly forever in your mind's eye.