G5 Arrow Squaring Device Replacement Cutter Kit, Arrow Building Accessories, Arrows & Shafts, Archery, Hunting : Cabela's

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G5 Arrow Squaring Device Replacement Cutter Kit at Cabela's

s7_416226_999_01

G5 Arrow Squaring Device Replacement Cutter Kit

Regular Price:: $24.99

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Description Customer Reviews (2) Q & A

G5 Arrow Squaring Device Replacement Cutter Kit

The Replacement Cutter Kit replaces the worn out cutters of your G5 A.S.D. Keep a kit on hand to ensure your cutter works in top condition when you need it to.

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Overall Customer Rating:

4.5 out of 5

2 out of 2(100%)customers would recommend this product to a friend.

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Rating breakdown 2 reviews

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Product ReviewsReview This Product

Overall Customer Rating:

4 out of 5

SuperDogOne

Location:Central Texas

Would you recommend this product to a friend? Yes

G5 Arrow Squaring Device

Date:February 2, 2008

A tool ever arrow builder have on their workbench.Replacement cutter is a little too expensive though.

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Overall Customer Rating:

5 out of 5

GooseCreek

Location:Indiana traditional bowhunter

Would you recommend this product to a friend? Yes

G5 arrow squaring device

Date:November 20, 2006

Just before bow season, I hear and see a lot of bow hunters struggling to get good arrow flight with their new broadheads. Good broadhead flight begins with the basic steps in arrow making. The shaft insert must be concentric with the shaft, and the mating surfaces between the cut off end of the shaft, the insert, and the insert face that hits the back of the broadhead or fieldpoint all must be absolutely flat and perpendicular to the axis of the shaft.

So when you cut the shaft to length, use a good cut off saw like the 5000 or 8000 rpm units made by Cabelas. They produce crisp, and flat cuts. Next use the carbon prep tool to rough up the last couple of inches of the internal of the shaft, and then use the carbon cutting side of the arrow squaring device to square up and polish the end produced by the cut off saw. Then use the carbon prep tool to roughed the inside of the last two inches of the shaft, apply glue, and push in the insert. After the insert has dried, reverse the cutting surface on the arrow squaring device, and trim the face of the aluminum insert to be sure it's square and true. Using this overall procedure should produce broadhead tipped arrows that will spin perfectly true when spun by hand or in an alignment tester.

If the heads are not spinning true, no sense going to the next step of bare shaft tuning. IF the completed shaft is spinning true, the only variable remaining that my affect flight is the spine of the arrow. Shoot a group of fletched field points. Then shoot a couple of the same arrows but with no fletch. Do this using a soft foam target at about 20 yards. Then examine your point of impact. Pay not attention to the nock end of the arrow. Just note when the bare shafts strike the target with respect to the fletched arrow. If you arrows are high, and above the impact area of the fletched shafts, you nocking point is too low. If the bare shaft arrows are low, the nocking point is too hight. If the bare shafts are to the right, you arrow spine is too weak(for a right handed shooter), go to a stiffer spine or to a lighter weight head. If the bare shafts are left of the fletched ones, then the arrows are too stiff (for a right handed shooter), so go to a lighter spine shaft, or a heavier head.

Remember, get the nock point right. Then if the left and right impact difference is less than 3-4 inches, you're good to go with a five inch helical fletch. A little tuning in spine, arrow length, and point weight will have the heads hitting the same point as the fletched field points.

Now take your perfectly square shafts with fletching, put in the broad head of choice. AS long as the Broadhead weights about the same as the fieldpoints you've been tuning with, then expect the broadheads to have perfect flight and hit the same point of aim as your field points.

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